Golf in Italy

On the northeastern edge of Italy, where Slovenia and Austria meet the Adriatic Sea, Friuli Venezia Giulia offers experiences just off the beaten track.

Venice is the starting point for our trip to northeastern Italy. Venice is definitely off the beaten path. But we don't have to go far to find a less explored part of Italy.

There's a reason to start in Venice. It's simple: who can resist seeing Venice? Not me. I have nothing new to add to the vast body of literature about this magical city, except that I'm now a convert. So forget Venice (for now).

We drive north from Venice Marco Polo Airport to Udine, in a region with a name that has a long history: Friuli Venezia Giulia. It sounds like a merger of three regions, but it is actually two - the Friuli region merged with Venezia Giulia ("Julian Venetia").

For centuries, this land belonged to empires: Venetian merchants and Habsburg administrators. The city of Trieste, in the very northeastern corner of Italy, belonged to the Habsburg Empire for more than 500 years. After World War II, it was under Allied (American and British) supervision. In 1954, the city was finally handed back to Italy.

Every era left its mark on Friuli Venezia Giulia. The result is a region where each city tells a different story – Viennese cafés in Trieste, Roman mosaics in Aquileia, Alpine trails near Tarvisio and long beaches in Grado. It is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean, between mountains and sea, between cultures that still overlap in daily life.

This variety makes Friuli Venezia Giulia a destination for all seasons. In winter, skiers head to the Dolomites. Spring brings cyclists and golfers. Summers are well spent along the Adriatic coast, while autumn fills the vineyards with grapes and the Gulf of Trieste with the sails of Barcolana, the region's world-famous regatta.

Friuli Venezia Giulia.

The heart of Friuli

Our first base is the Villaverde Hotel & Resort in Fagagna, near Udine. The golf course, Golf Club Udine, has rolling parkland fairways framed by mature oaks and views of the Dolomites. It is an incredibly pleasant course to play on, with a sense of seclusion, but also beautiful views, on every hole.

Next to the ninth green, three gleaming, golden houses catch the eye. That’s not the only architectural marvel at the resort. The hotel’s modern building will pique the interest of anyone interested in architecture. From the outside, it blends into the landscape with an artificial grass roof. From the inside, it has a unified feel, as the entire upper floor is joined together in one space, with restaurants, a lobby and a seminar area under one high roof.

A round of golf here ends with a glass of Friulano on the terrace and slices of delicious Prosciutto di San Daniele from nearby vineyards.

Aquileia, Grado and the Adriatic Coast

Then it’s off to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Aquileia, now a small town, but once one of Rome’s great cities – a centre of trade and early Christianity. Its forum remains, along with its mosaics and the great Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta. The mosaic floor in the basilica is from the original church, built in 320.

Along the coast, Portopiccolo offers a modern contrast – a marina carved out of an old quarry, home to Tivoli Portopiccolo Sistiana with terraces opening directly onto the sea.

Trieste and the Habsburgs

Trieste is just a stone's throw away. The city feels like a city between worlds. For centuries it was the main port of the Habsburg Empire, connecting Central Europe with the Adriatic Sea. Its legacy is still visible in the neoclassical facades, the large squares and cafes reminiscent of Vienna. Piazza dell'Unità d'Italia, one of the few squares in Europe open to the sea, reflects Trieste's openness and its changing fortunes.

After the fall of the empire, Trieste passed through several hands – Austrian, Italian, Yugoslav, German and Allied – and all left their mark. Today, it blends this cosmopolitan past with a distinctly local character: literary cafes once frequented by James Joyce, the scent of roasted coffee from Illy’s headquarters, and the limestone hills of the Carso River that frame the bay.

Golf Club Trieste

High above the city, where the Carso plateau meets the sky, lies Golf Club Trieste – the region’s oldest course, founded in 1954 and still member-owned. The setting is peaceful, overlooking the Adriatic, with sea views from the first to the 17th holes. It’s a beautiful day on a course defined by its Carso rock formations, mature trees and some tricky, blind holes. Luckily, we have an experienced member playing with us.

“The hills we see there are in Slovenia,” she says, as we line up for our turn on the back nine holes. It reminds us that Trieste is easily accessible for a day trip from Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Croatia.

The small pro shop and simple clubhouse add to the sense of community, with locals playing their rounds of golf, sharing a meal and enjoying the view of the Adriatic from the terrace.

Barcolana

Trieste’s blend of cultures and history comes to life every October during Barcolana – the world’s largest sailing regatta. This year, 1,865 boats filled the Bay of Trieste. What began in 1969 with just 51 participants has become a celebration of the sea. The entire city becomes a party, with concerts and gatherings by the water. Seeing the sails hoisted against the Adriatic and the limestone hills captures the essence of Friuli Venezia Giulia – where history, sport and everyday life meet on the edge of the Mediterranean.